There are cities you visit, and there are cities that change you. Varanasi belongs to the second kind. Known also as Kashi and Banaras, this ancient city on the banks of the holy Ganga has drawn seekers, saints, poets, and pilgrims for thousands of years. Its winding lanes echo with temple bells, its ghats glow with the light of countless lamps, and its air carries the fragrance of incense, flowers, and devotion. For millions of people, a journey to Varanasi is not simply a t